Your plan should work fine.
Some pre-soak, many don't. I have done both, generally have not found it to matter, although I confess to a certain appreciation for seeing the anti-halation dye pour out with the pre-soak water before it ever gets in the developer. No reason to think that matters, really, I just find it vaguely satisfying. The arguments for pre-soak: slows down the take up of developer, so reduces the risk of surge marks, etc., as the developer hits the film, acclimates the film to the temperature of the chemicals. Main argument against: may cause unevenness of take up of the developer. Never found it conclusively to matter myself, so do it if you like.
Water is important. Excessively hard or soft water can affect the outcome, primarily the former. Mine is fine, so I don't worry about it much. Doesn't hurt to start with distilled to have a basis for comparison.
D-76 is my standard developer, although I have been intending to experiment with pyro for alternative printing processes one of these days. I use it one-shot in the 1:1 dilution, as I find that economical and the results pleasing. Just be sure to use enough developer to meet the minimum requirement, which is about 2oz (60ml) per 4x5 sheet. In an SP-445 (I have one also, I use it sometimes, trays sometimes, a rotary machine sometimes, depending on how many sheets I'm doing) you need 16oz of fluid, and as four sheets require 4x2oz=8oz of developer (+ the 8oz of water), it all works out perfectly. Sorry for the US measures, just simpler to talk about in this case.
How long to develop depends on the film type and whether you're dealing with contrast adjustments for some reason (intentional under- or over-exposure). For black and white, I don't see a lot of point outside a stop or two away from normal. But it's a place to exert control once you've mastered the process. You can get a safe starting point for dev time from the data sheet for the film you're using, or you can Google the "Massive Dev Chart" to get a crowdsourced idea of dev times for various alternative dilutions. There's also a phone app that has the latter built into it. For plates, I find that D-76 1:1 for about 12 minutes (+/-, depending on the exposure) works well, but as you can develop by inspection, I'd work on learning that rather than fretting about exact times. Paper negatives are another story, as paper generally develops more quickly. Again, you can develop by inspection there, so I would.
As I mentioned elsewhere, I use a water stop with TF-4. Acid stops are a bit more certain, but it's never been an issue for me. Mostly just stops developer carryover to the fix, which is not something that concerns me a lot. When I started, I used Kodak stop (basically acetic acid) and Kodafix, and that worked, too, although the stop was a bit more stinky. Which fix did you buy?
Washing: I recommend the Ilford method because it saves water. It's easy enough to Google, so I won't belabor it here. Failing that, if your water is cheap and plentiful, running at a slow steady rate (what matters is number of full changes of bath over time, because the hypo leaches into the water at a slow steady rate) for about 10 minutes is normally considered best.
I don't tend to bother much with wetting agent. Sometimes I get spots as a result, usually I don't. If I have something important, I might bother, I do have some PhotoFlo around. Some people use a small drop of dish soap in water. I've never tried that, no idea how effective it is (or isn't).
Hang to dry, ideally in a non-dusty place. Assuming you use your bathroom, as suggested, just run the shower for a few minutes before you start the development process. This will help lower the dust in the room. I have a spare bath curtain rod on which I hang a stainless steel clothes drying rack intended for socks and small things, so it has lots of clips on it, works well for hanging film. Plates I put in a plate rack to dry. I bought one, then built several others, can show an example if that's helpful.
Don't over think it, just jump in and try it, it's simple enough. You can always tweak things later.
P.S. Edited for clarity: when I talk about "developing by inspection" of course I mean developing in trays with a safelight that allows you to watch the development. I use plastic trays I bought from an online food supply place; 8x10 trays for 4x5, 11x14 trays for 8x10, etc.