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Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

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alexvaras
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Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Postby alexvaras » Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:07 am

Hi all,

This the autumn project, Rolleiflex 3.5 Automat Synchro-Compur M-X with Tessar 75mm/f3.5 T from 1951.

FullSizeRender 2.jpg
FullSizeRender.jpg


I found it in the local market as "for parts/repair", around 75$. The previous owner tried to fix it, who knows where he took it from but surprisingly he didn't know how to load it correctly.
State of the camera - What to do.
1) B mode as 1/50 - Open shutter and check B mode, dismount everything, clean and put it back.
2) Polaroid mirror installed, I got the "original" but unsure if it's really the original :) - Already emails Marty S. asking a new one from him.
3) No skin at all or to be replaced - Checking out different options in the market, recommendations?
4) Counter mechanism works after following step by step the original procedure and setting up back dent wheels and levelers - Recheck.
5) Aluminium rustiness - No idea here, which product you recommend for this?
6) Dirtyness in the winding and counting mechanism - Dismount or Compressed Air.
7) Lens elements are ok after cleaning.
8) Some white spots inside the flm chamber, rustyness? - Paint it black with a matte black?

So even if I can't put it back to like the lens fits Ikoflex II (checked) and atm my Ikoflex is on stereoids with a coated Tessar :)
Any other recommendations are welcome :)
Thank you in advance.
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PFMcFarland
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Re: Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Postby PFMcFarland » Sat Sep 15, 2018 11:02 pm

My go to seller on eBay for coverings: https://www.ebay.com/sch/customcameraco ... 1438.l2654 Also try Aki Asahi at: http://aki-asahi.com/store/

As for aluminum corrosion, in closed areas where the surface is bare, all you really can do is clean it very well, then coat it with clear acrylic, or nail polish. Inside the film chamber try to remove the spots, then paint it flat/matte black. Sounds like the camera was in a wet environment.

You may want to go ahead and disassemble the winding/counter mechanism while you have the camera opened up, as that is the best way to clean up all the gears, plus be able to re-lube it.

Take your time, Alex, no need to rush such a project. It will be a fine camera when you get done.

PF
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alexvaras
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Re: Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Postby alexvaras » Mon Sep 17, 2018 2:06 pm

PFMcFarland wrote:My go to seller on eBay for coverings: https://www.ebay.com/sch/customcameraco ... 1438.l2654 Also try Aki Asahi at: http://aki-asahi.com/store/

As for aluminum corrosion, in closed areas where the surface is bare, all you really can do is clean it very well, then coat it with clear acrylic, or nail polish. Inside the film chamber try to remove the spots, then paint it flat/matte black. Sounds like the camera was in a wet environment.

You may want to go ahead and disassemble the winding/counter mechanism while you have the camera opened up, as that is the best way to clean up all the gears, plus be able to re-lube it.

Take your time, Alex, no need to rush such a project. It will be a fine camera when you get done.

PF

Ordered the skin from Aki Asahi and the mirror from Martin Seelig, the other one doesn't send here.
Ordered some black paint for the inside chamber.
And I starting already... Everything is on flickr but this is my main spot some let me upload everything here, also it can be use as backup :D

Green: What happens when the door is closed, the "tab" from the film chamber moves to the left and moves the counter wheel from the taking up spool mechanism (in blue) and reseting the counter to 0.
Red: Simple winding mechanism, it will be locked if new exposure is ready.
Yellow: Film detector, this is why Rolleiflexes are loaded this way, please RTM.
Blue: As long as you take up roll this works.
1.jpg


4 screws, remember their position.
2.JPG


4 screws, 4 washers.
3.JPG


Film detector.
Now the door is closed but no film.
Counter is reset to 0 and the counter wheel is separated from the winding wheels which make the counter more to the next number.
In yellow is the film detector, as soon you wind the film, when the backpaper+film passes between the two rolls in the film chamber, this leveller will push right and it will free the tension placing back the counter wheel to the winding wheel, so the counter to 1 will begin from there, when 1 is achieved it will stop the winding mechanism, and you have to place the outside crack leveller in resting position.
If your camera has problems detecting the film start, unscrew a bit this yellow screw and move with tweezers CW or CCW until works, as I read this is a common problem in these cameras and easy to fix.
4.JPG


Winding and counter wheels off
About the counter wheel, remember the position of this brass plate, now the wheel should mark 0 when its screwed back.
5.JPG


Taking up spool wheel off.
Now we see how its moved to the left.
6.JPG


Unleash the beast!
I mean loose any spring before unscrew anything connected to it.
You don't want to loose 5 minutes (if lucky) finding out where it felt with 2 dogs doing the same as you.
7.JPG


Reset to 0 spring.
Mark, take photos, whatever but leave a trace where is everything back in place.
8.JPG


Reset to 0 spring part II.
9.JPG


Mark-mark-mark.
Before remove it mark it.
10.JPG


Film detector leveller.
11.JPG


One side of the spring.
12.JPG


Both sides of the spring.
Keep it together with the main piece.
13.JPG


Taking out the close door tab.
Remember this piece goes inside the film chamber, you can take it out with this movement.
14.JPG


This screw doesn't go outside.
I couldn't find out how it completely take out the screw from there, luckily there was no need.
15.JPG


Stop winding!
This mechanism stops the winding wheel until a photo is taken to prevent blank frames.
In red the small spring and watch out this even smaller hair spring, that is its position.
16.JPG


Remember which side is correct.
17.JPG


Unscrewed.
Dont even bother to take the spring from there!!
18.JPG


The twins doing click-click-click.
You can remove them from the beginning, their springs and very easy to jump off, guaranteed!
19.JPG


Marked are the points holding the plate in place, two screws at 8 and 12 o'clock. Small tab going inside the aluminium case down. Right bars blocked by the case and bellow the plate in the centre, there is a hole where you can see the mechanism that cock the shutter everytime you wind on and wind off.
20.JPG


Before removing the plate #1
Loose this spring, only this side, I can't see how is connected the other side so I leave it.
Also it will be necessary to move the cocking shutter arm freely later.
21.JPG


Before removing the plate #2.
Get ready the right bar to unlock its movement, this won't bend anything if done carefully.
22.JPG


Before removing the plate, #3.
This screw won't take out but it leaves us enough gap (up-down arrows) to take out the plate.
23.JPG


Removing the plate step by step.
1. Push up to unlock the bellow tab.
2. from the left side start pulling out until you have an small gap.
3. Push left to release the right bars from the camera case and..
4. When doing point #3 find out the coincidences between the pin of the cocking shutter arm and the inside leveller from the winding mechanism so we can finally free the plate.
24.JPG


Focusing system and others.
In green the focusing system, it works very smooth so Im not sure if I will touch it.
Orange the shutter cocking arm.
In red the shutter release, it does a up-down movement and it moves... next pic.
25.JPG


Continue...
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alexvaras
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Re: Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Postby alexvaras » Mon Sep 17, 2018 2:08 pm

Resume...

Reverse.
The shutter release moves the red leveller from the previous picture and here is the reason you have to place back the crack before doing a photo, if not in place the shutter release is blocked.
26.JPG


Front.
27.JPG


Time to clean.
28.JPG



Thank you to all the people from the forum encouraging me post by post, Hans K and Rick O.
Next November makes one year since I started back not only to take photos again but to take a look inside the cameras and learn how/why they work, eventually I started to buy the ones broken just to repair and enjoy them again.

Thank you for watching... More steps to follow.
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PFMcFarland
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Re: Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Postby PFMcFarland » Mon Sep 17, 2018 10:58 pm

That's coming along nicely, Alex.

PF
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Bennybee
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Re: Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Postby Bennybee » Fri Sep 28, 2018 11:52 am

Good heavens!! Good luck with that one. At least you seem to know what you're doing.
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melek
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Re: Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Postby melek » Thu Oct 18, 2018 6:22 pm

This is all very impressive. The complexity of these cameras is really laid bare.

Ironically, it was the simplicity of operation that made them popular.
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-Mike Elek


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