Ok, I got the results from the new collimation, as usual I did some pictures at my favourite building and here are the frames comparison.
Same settings 100 f11, same film Ilford Delta 100.
In order left side of the negatives, centre negatives, right side of the negatives, guess which one (left or right) is the after collimation.
Right side of the negative improved dramatically since I discovered a difference of 0.64mm between the left and right side of the shutter plate holder (not 100% parallel to the film plate) so I added the correct amount of shims to that part, it seems I did it alright.
Btw, when opening the Inos II I saw that the shutter holder, in its inner side has some stripes (about 1mm thick to the inside) and the second holder part (the ones attached to the bellows) has similar (but to the outside) so when put them together and secured from the inside as usual (screw shutter ring) they fit perfectly and you can see how the bellows front (next to the shutter) can be moved just 2mm left/right from the shutter.
When I saw it I thought I assembled incorrectly or I did not torque enough but then I remembered that reading somewhere about this camera, I read something like it was designed to avoid the vacuum effect when you open the camera, and this is how Voitglander did it, light tight guaranteed (after this roll test) can enter from this "gap" but allows the camera's bellows to "breath" instead of taking the film to the inside. Or just I did it wrong and I try to look for an excuse
So far I do as PF recommended me once with bellows, first half wind after shooting, second wind part before next shooting, and never wind with the bellows closed.
Next roll I will test this, two pics in a row. To be continued...
Thank you for watching and reading.