Super Ikonta 530

[alexvaras]

Do you mean to lube the lens threads?

[alexvaras]

Well, I used helical for inside shutter for the "tension ring" which one I cock the shutter, inside and upper part, also moebius 8000 for the low speed gears.
Outside the shutter this camera has multiple gears and rings connecting the rangefinder system witn the lens, I used moebius 8000 for gears and helical lube for the ring that connects the gears and the lens in the upper part where it could has some friction.
Also helical lube in the thread between the front lens and the middle lens, this is used for focusing... No other option left...
I tested the speeds, T and B are fine , 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, and 50 are fine, 100 is 150 and 300 is 230, is there any way to improve the accuracy in those last ones?

[PFMcFarland]

If you got 1/230 for 1/300, I'd say you're doing pretty good, Alex. These old leaf shutters were never the most accurate on the high end anyway. As for as the 1/150 for 1/100, I'd just open your aperture a bit more than called for on a meter, say half a stop.

Lubing the tension ring sounds good, as it rides on the cam plate, and I've found lube on a lot of them. But putting the Moebius oil on the low speed gears may come back to haunt you. At most I would put it on the shaft ends, not on the gears themselves. The reason for this is the "low speed" gears (or self timer) sit in the bottom of the shutter/lens assembly. This assembly is not sealed to prevent dust and debris into the escapement and timer. It also tends to settle towards the bottom of the assembly, and with the oil on the gears, will stick to them and clog up the works again. It is an old shutter, and sometimes lubing will improve performance, but in the long run it will just become problematic again.

PF

[alexvaras]

Thx for the advice PF, I will open the shutter again, clean it and doing as you say

[alexvaras]

Well, first roll shot and something new to learn... This is an example of the 16 picture roll, not focused!!
I was focusing the flag holder but the focus was about 1.5m-2m away as you can see.

So I went to collimate the lens to infinity again, which one for you is well done? Left or right?

The left one is the new position, pictures were taken with the right one. I hope I did it correctly this time
Or do you think it can be improved?

[PFMcFarland]

Alex, what method do you use to colimate the lens?

PF

[alexvaras]

As Mike describes in his web.

Digital camera with zoom, its lens to infinity in front of the test camera lens in with the door opened to a source of light, test camera lens to infinity (or what I guessed its infinity, best image definition.

FullSizeRender.jpg (26.48 KiB) Viewed 1633 times

[PFMcFarland]

I go with the good old tried and true method of focusing on an object that is a minimum of 100ft/30m away, utilizing a "ground glass" made from a broken CD case with frosted tape on the side that faces the lens, cut to size and placed on the film rails. Either way, if you make the mistake of putting the ground glass on the outer rails that help guide the film through the camera, then you will always be off a bit, as the target side would not be within the film plane.

PF

[alexvaras]

Im happy finally, the collimation is done well (I think)

https://flic.kr/s/aHskuDNTKh

Please let me know if something is not correct for you and why, I added speed/aperture and focusing distance.
For focusing I used a Voightlander external rangefinder (I came last week) and its accurate (+- 0.5 metres)

Now its time to reopen and lubricate correctly all those gear and setup the cameras rangefinder.

About the pictures, I liked the results, first time shooting in snow + plus trying to calculate the deviation from the camera's speeds.
But still is lack of contrast to my taste, I guess enlarging this could be fixed.

All comments are welcome and congratulate a camera from 1934, she is back to life!

[PFMcFarland]

It's pretty much dialed in now, Alex. Like I said before, if you want more contrast from the film, use a yellow or orange filter. Some development techniques will raise the contrast too, but at the expense of creating heavier grain structures. And in the end, select a multi-contrast grade of paper, and use some filters on the enlarger to manipulate the image to what you want.

PF