Recent Forum Posts
As some of you know from my previous posts, I have sort of a love/frustration relationship with my Zorki and FED cameras and lenses. I think I have the lens issues ironed out (there was some missing blacking on the rear element of the J-12 causing flares), but the Z-6 looks like it could still handle a shutter adjustment. Maybe I'll remember to do that before the next time I use it.
Another thing is the Print Shop Pro software is not totally to my liking. I'm kind of 75% okay with it, but it has some quirks I don't really care for, such as some adjustments will stay the same while you are going through the set of photos, while others constantly need to be reset. It has more sliders and drop down menus than PS Elements 10, the software I used on the old desktop, but they are somewhat confusing too. I never could find the "Add Photos" button it told me to push while attempting to do a panoramic of the towers (they just refer to it as "Photo Merge"), so today I got the latest version of Elements (2018). Will get that installed by the end of the week, depending how busy I get catching up on other things.
Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Thu May 17, 2018 9:31 pm
Statistics: Posted by LarryD — Thu May 17, 2018 7:56 pm
Statistics: Posted by GrahamS — Thu May 17, 2018 5:25 pm
Statistics: Posted by LarryD — Thu May 17, 2018 3:06 pm
Statistics: Posted by scott — Thu May 17, 2018 12:45 pm
Thanks for showing the J-12 nice tones in the second pic.
Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Thu May 17, 2018 12:22 pm
The weather was beautiful, and I looked for somewhere I hadn't been before, selecting the fire lookout on top of Price's Mountain over in the next county. I was expecting a rutted old fire road, but Oil Well Road turned out to be a nice, wide, and well paved surface due to all the residences that go all the way to the top of the mountain.
There aren't many views along the way, just an occasional glimpse through someones backyard where they've cleared the ground. At the top is the old lookout tower that has been converted into a radio antennae support, and a somewhat newer cell tower to keep it company.
I have more photos to add to the album, and will be doing so in batches as they have different themes.
Side-By-Side Towers by P F McFarland, on Flickr
Cell Tower Wide Angle by P F McFarland, on Flickr
Cell Tower Structures by P F McFarland, on Flickr
See the rest at https://flic.kr/s/aHskBiPyfC
Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Thu May 17, 2018 10:59 am
Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Tue May 15, 2018 10:42 pm
I cleaned and lubed already the slow gear, so speeds should be fine, I test all of them and they seem ok.
On my way to dismount the rangefinder two small sims felt from I-don't-know-where, my guess they belong to the helicoid plate that holds the lens, but from which of those five screws come from these two sims?
Another question if you can help me is how can I clean the "yellow" glass of the rangefinder? OR is it better leave it if I have no problem to focus?
Tomorrow will be the cleaning of all the metal parts disassembled and the cleaning and lubing again the rangefinder and helicoid.
Thank you for watching and the advices.
Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Tue May 15, 2018 2:54 pm
Statistics: Posted by LarryD — Mon May 14, 2018 9:38 pm
There are many things to think of when purchasing a large format camera, mainly what size do you wish to work in. You can limit yourself to just 4x5, or get a camera with interchangeable back standards when you want to switch up to a larger format. But starting out out you might just want to stick with the basics, and go 4x5.
Now, you need to determine which kind of camera. If you are planning on doing a lot of studio work, a monorail type camera with front and rear standards that have all the movements is good. If you plan on doing a lot of outdoor photography, then a field camera is the ticket, as it can be folded into a much easier to haul around package. If you don't need all the movements of the standards, then a simpler camera such as a Graphic/Graflex can be employed. It's good for general usage both indoors and out, and closes up for transportation with the lens still mounted, and can even be used handheld with a roll film back (the different camera models usually have either an attachable Kalart rangefinder, or one built in).
Thirdly, one might want to make sure their camera has a Graflok back so they can rotate the film holder from landscape to portrait, and back again.
And investing a in good tripod is essential, no matter which style camera you get. Tripods built for 35mm cameras are not substantial enough for holding a view camera. You need to make sure the head has a big enough plate to distribute the weight of the camera better, and that the legs are not made of some flimsy material. A bag hook on the bottom of the central column is always good to ad stabilization to the rig, especially when the wind picks up.
Now you need a lens. Here is where the fun starts. Some cameras have proprietary lens boards, so if you buy a lens that is already mounted on a board, you need to make sure it will fit your camera. If you buy a lens without a board, you need to make sure that not only will the board you get will fit the camera, but that it has the proper hole size for the lens/shutter assembly. If your camera comes with a mounted lens and shutter, then most of the decision is taken care of. But is it the right focal length? "Normal" lenses for 4x5 are usually in the 125mm to 200mm range. Wide angle are anything below 100mm, and telephoto is above 250mm. You'll notice the gaps between ranges, and this is because you need to take in consideration the coverage of the lens. While you may find focal lengths made to fit in those gaps, they might not have the coverage needed for making movements, so more than likely you'll come across more common lengths such as 90mm, 127-135mm, and 300mm.
Bring a strong short flashlight with you to check the bellows for light leaks.
Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Sun May 13, 2018 10:28 pm
Statistics: Posted by GrahamS — Sun May 13, 2018 4:47 pm
I have to say, the quality of inventory at the local camera shops in Russia is superlative...
I haven't bought any camera from any shop, only Perkeo II and Medalist II were from Ebay, the rest were second hand market (websites) and talking with these sellers about what they dont have on sale yet.
Months ago there was a grandson selling the cameras from his grandfather who was "amateur" (Zeiss Ikon pre and post war, Rollei planar, Linhof and some others)
Now Im in touch with a man about 50s whose father in law pasted away... I have been in this man's house, he took something from the father in law to his home to do inventory and started to sell, so far he has about 150 photography items for selling (the Hasselblad, 28mm and 40mm for LTM came from him). And month ago he took me to the father in law house to 'take a look'. Now imagine a house absolutely full of all kind of cameras, lenses, holders, films, parts, you name it. All stores had something, this person lived literally for taking pics (I was told he was a volcano photographer specialist). Two large fridges full of films, all sizes. We could not figure out how this person could live in this house...
My next target, and on this I need your advices, is to go a make a list of the large format cameras he has and which would be better for me to start with.
Normally the shop which sell second hand charges 20% of the selling prize, thats why only if the equipment has been checked and declared in good used condition its safe to buy. The usual second hand market works as following... You see the item, phone the guy, do some questions, bargain if its allowed and then agree on a meeting, normally INSIDE the metro, easiest to go back home and never had a problem (and safest depending in area is doing the selling), you inspect the item, if you like it, you pay it and bye, no chance of getting back to the seller saying you forgot to check something and now at home you saw it and bla bla, sold its done. Normally it takes me 5-10 mins to inspect without any rush, and this is a lot of time for a Moscovite
Only on local auction websites and photograph forum markets you can ask for a devolution.
This is my way to get cameras here
Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Sun May 13, 2018 2:55 am
The last one does not have movement, just focus is on the wall and DOF is very narrow. The focused zone is sharp.
Statistics: Posted by Julio1fer — Sun May 13, 2018 12:00 am
Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Sat May 12, 2018 10:45 pm
Statistics: Posted by GrahamS — Sat May 12, 2018 5:05 pm
Statistics: Posted by Philip — Sat May 12, 2018 2:42 pm
This next I need to do it again, I want more DOF, maybe with ASA400, sunny and f32?
I wanted to focus more near but the way medalist focusing couldn't know which tulip I was targeting... Zone focus would worked I guess.
Too many people is having a hard time lately...
My tiff has better sharpness than the one in flicker. This was an infinity focus test.
And this was as an attempt of interior shooting, overexposed and focus on the wall... I had very few light and I think I misread the EV, I used a tripod, but the Medalist II has the insert of the external cable for shutter release on the Medalist lens, so Im not sure at all the shot was no completely still when it was exposed.
Thank you for watching and I hope you enjoyed the trip
Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Sat May 12, 2018 1:03 pm