Welcome! It is

Recent Forum Posts

Subscribe to Recent Forum Posts feed
Discussions, Community, Learning 2018-09-21T23:49:01-04:00 PhotographyToday.net
Updated: 46 min 29 sec ago

The Fix-It Forum • Re: Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Mon, 09/17/2018 - 14:08
Resume...

Reverse.
The shutter release moves the red leveller from the previous picture and here is the reason you have to place back the crack before doing a photo, if not in place the shutter release is blocked.


Front.


Time to clean.



Thank you to all the people from the forum encouraging me post by post, Hans K and Rick O.
Next November makes one year since I started back not only to take photos again but to take a look inside the cameras and learn how/why they work, eventually I started to buy the ones broken just to repair and enjoy them again.

Thank you for watching... More steps to follow.

Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Mon Sep 17, 2018 2:08 pm

The Fix-It Forum • Re: Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Mon, 09/17/2018 - 14:06
PFMcFarland wrote:
My go to seller on eBay for coverings: https://www.ebay.com/sch/customcameraco ... 1438.l2654 Also try Aki Asahi at: http://aki-asahi.com/store/

As for aluminum corrosion, in closed areas where the surface is bare, all you really can do is clean it very well, then coat it with clear acrylic, or nail polish. Inside the film chamber try to remove the spots, then paint it flat/matte black. Sounds like the camera was in a wet environment.

You may want to go ahead and disassemble the winding/counter mechanism while you have the camera opened up, as that is the best way to clean up all the gears, plus be able to re-lube it.

Take your time, Alex, no need to rush such a project. It will be a fine camera when you get done.

PF

Ordered the skin from Aki Asahi and the mirror from Martin Seelig, the other one doesn't send here.
Ordered some black paint for the inside chamber.
And I starting already... Everything is on flickr but this is my main spot some let me upload everything here, also it can be use as backup

Green: What happens when the door is closed, the "tab" from the film chamber moves to the left and moves the counter wheel from the taking up spool mechanism (in blue) and reseting the counter to 0.
Red: Simple winding mechanism, it will be locked if new exposure is ready.
Yellow: Film detector, this is why Rolleiflexes are loaded this way, please RTM.
Blue: As long as you take up roll this works.


4 screws, remember their position.


4 screws, 4 washers.


Film detector.
Now the door is closed but no film.
Counter is reset to 0 and the counter wheel is separated from the winding wheels which make the counter more to the next number.
In yellow is the film detector, as soon you wind the film, when the backpaper+film passes between the two rolls in the film chamber, this leveller will push right and it will free the tension placing back the counter wheel to the winding wheel, so the counter to 1 will begin from there, when 1 is achieved it will stop the winding mechanism, and you have to place the outside crack leveller in resting position.
If your camera has problems detecting the film start, unscrew a bit this yellow screw and move with tweezers CW or CCW until works, as I read this is a common problem in these cameras and easy to fix.


Winding and counter wheels off
About the counter wheel, remember the position of this brass plate, now the wheel should mark 0 when its screwed back.


Taking up spool wheel off.
Now we see how its moved to the left.


Unleash the beast!
I mean loose any spring before unscrew anything connected to it.
You don't want to loose 5 minutes (if lucky) finding out where it felt with 2 dogs doing the same as you.


Reset to 0 spring.
Mark, take photos, whatever but leave a trace where is everything back in place.


Reset to 0 spring part II.


Mark-mark-mark.
Before remove it mark it.


Film detector leveller.


One side of the spring.


Both sides of the spring.
Keep it together with the main piece.


Taking out the close door tab.
Remember this piece goes inside the film chamber, you can take it out with this movement.


This screw doesn't go outside.
I couldn't find out how it completely take out the screw from there, luckily there was no need.


Stop winding!
This mechanism stops the winding wheel until a photo is taken to prevent blank frames.
In red the small spring and watch out this even smaller hair spring, that is its position.


Remember which side is correct.


Unscrewed.
Dont even bother to take the spring from there!!


The twins doing click-click-click.
You can remove them from the beginning, their springs and very easy to jump off, guaranteed!


Marked are the points holding the plate in place, two screws at 8 and 12 o'clock. Small tab going inside the aluminium case down. Right bars blocked by the case and bellow the plate in the centre, there is a hole where you can see the mechanism that cock the shutter everytime you wind on and wind off.


Before removing the plate #1
Loose this spring, only this side, I can't see how is connected the other side so I leave it.
Also it will be necessary to move the cocking shutter arm freely later.


Before removing the plate #2.
Get ready the right bar to unlock its movement, this won't bend anything if done carefully.


Before removing the plate, #3.
This screw won't take out but it leaves us enough gap (up-down arrows) to take out the plate.


Removing the plate step by step.
1. Push up to unlock the bellow tab.
2. from the left side start pulling out until you have an small gap.
3. Push left to release the right bars from the camera case and..
4. When doing point #3 find out the coincidences between the pin of the cocking shutter arm and the inside leveller from the winding mechanism so we can finally free the plate.


Focusing system and others.
In green the focusing system, it works very smooth so Im not sure if I will touch it.
Orange the shutter cocking arm.
In red the shutter release, it does a up-down movement and it moves... next pic.


Continue...

Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Mon Sep 17, 2018 2:06 pm

Words/No Words • Re: Blood Moon

Sun, 09/16/2018 - 17:09
Nice image, James.

Statistics: Posted by GrahamS — Sun Sep 16, 2018 5:09 pm

Words/No Words • Blood Moon

Sun, 09/16/2018 - 14:54
I saw a bit of a "blood moon" while on Cape Cod in July. This was the day of the lunar eclipse, which wasn't seen in the U.S., but this moon may be a side-effect. It was redder when closer to the horizon, but some clouds got in the way. Provincetown Harbor, Cape Cod. MA, July 27, 2018.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesmck3 ... posted-ff/

Statistics: Posted by jamesmck — Sun Sep 16, 2018 2:54 pm

The Fix-It Forum • Hapo 66 E - Tune up.

Sun, 09/16/2018 - 06:16
Hi all,

Hapo 66-E, uncoupled rangefinder and coated triplet.
Following the steps of the great Hans K. and thank you all for your tips and support.
Slowly I will put more pictures, different than other with some useful if one day you get this camera in your hands.

I started with the shutter.
Pronto shutter cock leveller.

Full album.
https://flic.kr/s/aHsms7Sety

Thanks for watching, more info and pictures of the camera later.

Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:16 am

The Fix-It Forum • Re: Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Sat, 09/15/2018 - 23:02
My go to seller on eBay for coverings: https://www.ebay.com/sch/customcameraco ... 1438.l2654 Also try Aki Asahi at: http://aki-asahi.com/store/

As for aluminum corrosion, in closed areas where the surface is bare, all you really can do is clean it very well, then coat it with clear acrylic, or nail polish. Inside the film chamber try to remove the spots, then paint it flat/matte black. Sounds like the camera was in a wet environment.

You may want to go ahead and disassemble the winding/counter mechanism while you have the camera opened up, as that is the best way to clean up all the gears, plus be able to re-lube it.

Take your time, Alex, no need to rush such a project. It will be a fine camera when you get done.

PF

Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Sat Sep 15, 2018 11:02 pm

The Fix-It Forum • Rolleiflex Automat 3.5 model K4A

Sat, 09/15/2018 - 08:07
Hi all,

This the autumn project, Rolleiflex 3.5 Automat Synchro-Compur M-X with Tessar 75mm/f3.5 T from 1951.



I found it in the local market as "for parts/repair", around 75$. The previous owner tryied to fix it, who knows where he took it from but surprisingly he didn't know how to load it correctly.
State of the camera - What to do.
1) B mode as 1/50 - Open shutter and check B mode, dismount everything, clean and put it back.
2) Polaroid mirror installed, I got the "original" but unsure if it's really the original - Already emails Marty S. asking a new one from him.
3) No skin at all or to be replaced - Checking out different options in the market, recommendations?
4) Counter mechanism works after following step by step the original procedure and setting up back dent wheels and levelers - Recheck.
5) Aluminium rustiness - No idea here, which product you recommend for this?
6) Dirtyness in the winding and counting mechanism - Dismount or Compressed Air.
7) Lens elements are ok after cleaning.
8) Some white spots inside the flm chamber, rustyness? - Paint it black with a matte black?

So even if I can't put it back to like the lens fits Ikoflex II (checked) and atm my Ikoflex is on stereoids with a coated Tessar
Any other recommendations are welcome
Thank you in advance.

Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Sat Sep 15, 2018 8:07 am

General Discussion • Re: Yashica making a come-back...in digital

Fri, 09/14/2018 - 22:27
Well, it's hit the market like the proverbial dung hitting the fan.

https://photorumors.com/2018/09/11/the- ... ore-101148

Best $160 I didn't spend.

PF

Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Fri Sep 14, 2018 10:27 pm

Point and Shoot • Re: Paris, and a new camera...

Fri, 09/14/2018 - 06:54
Sometimes small and simple is the way to go. Less over-thinking, and you end up enjoying shooting anyway. The small 1" sensor cameras are more than capable.

When we went to Canada a couple of months ago, I spent a few weeks beforehand wondering which camera, which lens? In the end, most shots were taken with the phone (Huawei P9). I still need to process the ones taken with the "real" camera (GX7).

Glad you enjoyed the trip!

Statistics: Posted by P C Headland — Fri Sep 14, 2018 6:54 am

Words/No Words • Re: Hasselblad 500 c/m - Mixed

Thu, 09/13/2018 - 22:53
alexvaras wrote:
Those were dried straws, as part of the composition, they turned out too much out of focus


Well, I thought about mentioning those, but let it go. I'm referring to a photo of the three ladies, but found out after looking again that was from your Prominent, not the Hassey.

PF

Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Thu Sep 13, 2018 10:53 pm

Words/No Words • Re: Hasselblad 500 c/m - Mixed

Thu, 09/13/2018 - 00:30
Those were dried straws, as part of the composition, they turned out too much out of focus

Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Thu Sep 13, 2018 12:30 am

Words/No Words • Re: Hasselblad 500 c/m - Mixed

Wed, 09/12/2018 - 22:07
Sometimes a little motion in the subject is good, like in this photo. Ever figure out what happened in the photo with the big light strike across the middle?

PF

Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Wed Sep 12, 2018 10:07 pm

Words/No Words • Re: Non touristic Moscow.

Wed, 09/12/2018 - 22:02
Gritty is good. As long as they don't sic the dogs on you.

PF

Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Wed Sep 12, 2018 10:02 pm

The Fix-It Forum • Re: Seneca Improved View 8x10 Project

Wed, 09/12/2018 - 21:58
Always good to see a project resurrected. I've a few around here that could use a miracle or two.

PF

Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Wed Sep 12, 2018 9:58 pm

The Fix-It Forum • Re: Seneca Improved View 8x10 Project

Tue, 09/11/2018 - 17:07
Last time I posted to this was four months to the day. Hmmm.

So this weekend I got a little time and worked on the back. "Minor surgery" is what I thought at first. This is turning into a bit of an involved resurrection. There were 21 holes of different sizes drilled through the back in all areas - I'm guessing failed attempts at locking pins, bail relocations, who knows what else. They're all filled. Set the new pins and the back fits tightly now. More fitting with shoulder and block planes. Installed and shaped a stop piece so the holders don't slide around in the back. No longer have access to black lacquer here, so I scrubbed off as much of the existing lacquer as possible, and will spray flat enamel over what's left, then finish with shellac ("paint over lacquer, not lacquer over paint"). After scrubbing down found some more imperfections that I figured I could fill in to make it just a little nicer. When that's dry, I'll scuff it up with 150 grit before spraying.

Where things are now:
Seneca 8x10 back rehab... by Scott, on Flickr

Seneca 8x10 back rehab... by Scott, on Flickr

Seneca 8x10 back rehab... by Scott, on Flickr


Today's my daughter's birthday, and there's a lot going on here right now, but hopefully won't be four months until I spray this.

Scott

Statistics: Posted by scott — Tue Sep 11, 2018 5:07 pm

Words/No Words • Re: Hasselblad 500 c/m - Mixed

Tue, 09/11/2018 - 08:37
Thank you for your comments Graham, about the first I agree, I was not sure what was going to be the result and well, making mistakes is how I learn
2nd and 4th I metered the light as a close portrait, just metering the light on the face on the person, I should have done it metering the whole not just the skin, right?
Sorry about the horizon on the 3rd, I will fix it and post it again.
Please comment anything on my photos, it's welcome

I forgot this one with Planar, it would be better using a faster speed.

Serving.

Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Tue Sep 11, 2018 8:37 am

Words/No Words • Re: Non touristic Moscow.

Tue, 09/11/2018 - 08:31
GrahamS wrote:
Fascinating. If that is graffiti on the door it's very good. The standard of bricklaying leaves something to be desired.

I will come back and check but I think it was a real graffiti.

Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Tue Sep 11, 2018 8:31 am

Words/No Words • Re: Hasselblad 500 c/m - Mixed

Tue, 09/11/2018 - 07:09
I don't particularly like the first, alex. Too busy and the background is too distracting. The 2nd and 4th are overexposed by about two stops. The third is superb (apart from a slight horizon error) and the last is very good as well. Brava, Alex! Keep it up.

Statistics: Posted by GrahamS — Tue Sep 11, 2018 7:09 am

Words/No Words • Re: Non touristic Moscow.

Tue, 09/11/2018 - 07:04
Fascinating. If that is graffiti on the door it's very good. The standard of bricklaying leaves something to be desired.

Statistics: Posted by GrahamS — Tue Sep 11, 2018 7:04 am

Words/No Words • Non touristic Moscow.

Tue, 09/11/2018 - 05:37
Hi all,

So far I have been shooting the nice parts of Moscow, downtown streets, parks, boulevards, churches, people resting and happy. Well all these represents less than 1% of Russia.
I'm going to try to shoot the "ugly" Moscow, suburbs, inner yards, broken things that no one repairs or cares about and such things.
There is always a reason why these things are this way and I will try to explain it, this way a foreigner can get the idiosyncrasy of the city/country/people.

The first photo is located between boulevards, the inner yard of an old building where many restaurant are located, the inner yard is full of a/c machines and smoke escape fans for kitchens. Need to check if the restaurant in front works or its closed.


Broken door.

Thank you for watching.

Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Tue Sep 11, 2018 5:37 am

Pages