Recent Forum Posts

That's too bad, Scott. Keep looking, you'll find a good one eventually.

PF

Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Thu Feb 25, 2021 9:42 pm

And this is the company:
https://photoplaceonline.com

I haven't used this company's services.

Statistics: Posted by melek — Thu Feb 25, 2021 6:43 pm

In case anyone missed it on flickr, here's the front glass:
IMG_3240 by Scott, on Flickr

So, the seller offered 30 day free returns, and this one is going back. Bummer.

Statistics: Posted by scott — Thu Feb 25, 2021 10:39 am

That's always a possibility. Alex. Still, you may need to remove the lenses for cleaning.

PFI have checked infinity and close focus with ground glass already mounted, it’s a good match.
I gave up trying to unscrew the front lens from the shutter, I have tried everything so far. I will test the lens with light haze between elements, otherwise perfect.
Same as viewing lens, once I do the test and I like the photos or not I will go for opening the focusing helicoids for cleaning and lubricating them back, including taking out the helicoids from viewing lens and its cleaning, same light haze.
Now 5 cameras for testing and few time plus not good weather for walking around...

Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Thu Feb 25, 2021 7:30 am

Beautiful work.

Statistics: Posted by Julio1fer — Wed Feb 24, 2021 8:42 pm

That's always a possibility. Alex. Still, you may need to remove the lenses for cleaning.

PF

Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Wed Feb 24, 2021 8:33 pm

Great work-up on this photo, Benny. You even fooled Graham into thinking it was done on the original Pen F.

PF

Statistics: Posted by PFMcFarland — Wed Feb 24, 2021 8:29 pm

The WLF opening was not good, many parts badly bended and all the spring but one not well positioned or made. After dismounting all parts I straightened the bars, cleaned and sanded removing marks. New springs made the WLF opening as good as it can be.


WLF fixed!

Now time for the mirror and the ground glass, the first was ordered to Martin Seelig who always did a excellent job and the second to Rick Oleson and his famous Bright-screens. Both arrived a week ago among more mirror and screen for clients cameras and the installation of the mirror was “easy”, the hardest part was removing the “toilet” mirror previously installed.


Mirror in place.

Martin always provides shims when the camera model requires it, bellow the mirror so it stays the closest possible to the viewing lens, also in this camera some holder for the mirror is missing (to keep the mirror not moving and and down) so I placed foam seals from a RB67 back to do the job.

Next is to check the taking and viewing lens if they are collimated or I need a correction, my guess is that if nobody opened this camera before (and I was the first) both taking lens and viewing lens should be fine if I placed the mirror exactly as it should go.

Statistics: Posted by alexvaras — Wed Feb 24, 2021 11:26 am

Not film. It is shot with the digital PenF in b/w mode with the contrast pushed and in-camera red filtering.

Statistics: Posted by Bennybee — Tue Feb 23, 2021 6:22 pm

Take a look at this place. It's in Youngstown, Ohio.

They have several options, including processing the film only for $6 a roll.

https://photoplaceonline.com/files/35mmform.pdf

Statistics: Posted by melek — Tue Feb 23, 2021 5:49 pm

Dwayne's photo was charging $6 per roll last time I checked (about 1yr ago)
But haven't shot any C41 or E6 in a while

Statistics: Posted by titrisol — Tue Feb 23, 2021 1:49 pm

Hi all -

I found 4 rolls of exposed film in the fridge. Been there years, no idea what's on any of them. 2 rolls C41 135, 1 roll C41 120, 1 roll E6 120. I'm at a loss for where to send this. No one local does it anymore, Dan's in Allentown charges $20 a roll for color 135 film (!!!). Bower's in Reading no longer does E6 at all. I'm not sure Dan's does either for that matter.

Anyone know of a decent, non-prohibitively expensive lab for sending these? I understand film processing has gone way up in the past 10 years, but someone's got to be decent for this these days. Any suggestions? I'd rather not buy kits and DIY.

Thanks,
Scott

Statistics: Posted by scott — Tue Feb 23, 2021 12:49 pm

Nice!

Statistics: Posted by titrisol — Tue Feb 23, 2021 12:36 pm

Infra Red film?

Statistics: Posted by GrahamS — Tue Feb 23, 2021 12:17 pm

Since my return to this forum a couple of weeks ago I haven't been too active here. The frosty weather of the past few weeks, as well as the dreaded pandemic had me stay inside, busy trying to get to grips with my new MacBook Air M1. I dug up a few photos from the past summer to try out some editing on the new machine. Usually I edit my digital pics in Olympus WorkSpace and resize them in the old PSE9. I don't shoot or edit enough to justify the monthly fee for Lightroom. Olympus WorkSpace is free and does everything I need very well, and it works as smoothly on the Mac as it does on my Windows machine. I had to try out resizing and simple exposure editing in Workspace, since PSE9 is not going to work on the Mac (program too old, no CD drive, etc.)
So here is one I'd like to share here. Shot with the Old Pen-F last summer. Just for the sake of confirming my return here - an 'acte de presence' if you like. More to come soon I hope.

Statistics: Posted by Bennybee — Tue Feb 23, 2021 11:24 am

Just saw you lens if pock-marked by fungus?
Your lens is the 2.0 Solagon, does it front-focus or the whole unit moves?

Statistics: Posted by titrisol — Tue Feb 23, 2021 10:07 am

You have some grease gunked off in the locking arm (10 o'clock)
Goof Off is OK, but either Ronsonol or Electric contact cleaner (Quick Drying), do a much better job
https://www.crcindustries.com/products/ ... 05103.html
This one is safe for plastics and all metals
Apply a few drops (or a good flush), move the levers, clean with a q-tip and repeat a few times

Statistics: Posted by titrisol — Mon Feb 22, 2021 4:23 pm

I'll add a hanging drop of SuperLube and see if that improves things. I flushed a bit of Goof-Off (nasty blend of light hydrocarbons. And xylene) and that improved things a bit.

A lot of notes and guidance happening on flickr today. For what it's worth, here's a video of getting the shutter to actually set and release, and the gyrations required.
Super Memar Shutter Cocking Issues by Scott, on Flickr

Statistics: Posted by scott — Mon Feb 22, 2021 4:01 pm

Make sure it moves freely by pushing with a toothpick
If it's not moving freely you might need to add some oil (a micro drop) in the fulcrum until it does
I think your main issue, Scott, is the B Lever is not swinging into position to block the Drive (under the Cocking Gear) and the Cocking Rack. Could be something to do with the spring that puts pressure on the B Lever, or the B Lever could be dragging on the support bar. I'm going with not enough tension in the spring. It can be adjusted without removing the B Lever if you are very very careful.

PF

Statistics: Posted by titrisol — Mon Feb 22, 2021 3:46 pm

Hmmm...the 35mm prime has a wider view than the zoom, while the 50 and 24 primes have narrower views. Very interesting.

PFThat’s the level of vodka left in the bottle after every picture Very true....

Statistics: Posted by GrahamS — Mon Feb 22, 2021 8:57 am